The Giant Brook Trout of the Sixth Great Lake

This article appears in Fly Fisherman's Oct-Dec 2025 issue available October 7 at your local fly shop, magazine stand, Walmart, Barnes & Noble, or major book retailer, or subscribe here.

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The Nipigon Corridor is a connected series of waters with an important, but little-known story in the history of fly fishing. While many of us know that the long-standing world-record brook trout was caught in the Nipigon River, many are also aware of that fishery’s decline in the 20th century. But a slow and steady recovery has been taking place. Trophy brook trout are again being caught here regularly—and there are other distractions such as lake trout, northern pike, rainbow trout and steelhead, and salmon.

The start of the Corridor is Lake Nipigon, a huge body of water that measures 40 miles by 60 miles. Lake Nipigon feeds the Nipigon River, the largest tributary of Lake Superior. The Nipigon River flows 32 miles from Lake Nipigon into Nipigon Bay on Lake Superior’s northwest corner. Nipigon Bay has several outlets into the open waters of the lake. To give a bit of context of size, Lake Superior itself is 350 miles long and 160 miles wide, and contains about 10 percent of the world’s supply of fresh water.  

Much of the Nipigon Corridor is bordered by wilderness, with little development and minimal access. Nearly all the land around Lake Nipigon is Crown Land, federal or provincial parks, or First Nations reserves. First Nations reserves provide protection from development, but are not necessarily accessible to the public. The same holds true with the Nipigon River. The northwest corner of Lake Superior in Ontario is the newly designated Lake Superior Marine Conservation Area. This covers nearly 3,900 square miles and is the largest freshwater marine reserve in the world.

To really appreciate this area, we need to look at its history, along with the decline and ongoing recovery of the brook trout fishery. Though problems still persist, it gives us a good look at what cooperation between governmental agencies, private enterprise, and the angling public can accomplish. It is a fisheries management success story worth sharing.

Record Moment

I have spent many hours imagining that evening of July 21, 1915 when Dr. J.W. Cook caught the largest brook trout that has ever been recorded by an angler. It was 14.5 pounds, 31.5 inches long, and taken at Rabbit Rapids on the Nipigon River. The fish took a “cockatuouche minnow” but there is some debate about whether it was actually bait, or a fly similar to a Muddler Minnow used to imitate a local prey species.

The giant fish was first thought to be a lake trout, but Cook’s trout created a stir among the native guides, who pointed out it was indeed a brook trout, but pale in coloration. Several days later, when they reached an official scale, it weighed in at 14 pounds 8 ounces. This record provides a glimpse into the storied sport-fishing history of the region, but even at the time of Cook’s catch, it had already declined from its earlier glory.

Since the mid-1800s Lake Superior was well known for its “rock trout.” This was the migratory form of brook trout found in great abundance along the lake’s rocky shorelines in both Canada and the United States. Early accounts describe anglers casting leaders with three wet flies and hooking three trout on a single cast. The largest rock trout were found in the Nipigon River. Over time, they became known as “coasters,” and that name has persisted.

Through the late 19th and early 20th centuries, wealthy sport anglers from around the world ventured to the Nipigon in search of giant brook trout. Robert Barnwell Roosevelt, an uncle of Teddy Roosevelt, chronicled one such early adventure in the book Superior Fishing, published in 1865. Charles Hallock, Edward R. Hewitt, and other writers published articles focused on the Nipigon River, and adventurous anglers followed them.

These early trips were accomplished by steamship from the town of Sault Ste. Marie at the east end of Lake Superior. The boats traveled the lake’s north shore, stopping occasionally so anglers could sample the many river mouths along the way. When these sports reached Nipigon, they often hired a canoe and native guide for a trip into the bush that might last several weeks. September was the most popular month, because huge numbers of brook trout ascended the Nipigon River from Nipigon Bay to reach their spawning areas.

The completion of the railroad in 1885 made the Nipigon area much easier to reach. The numbers of anglers increased, overfishing and overharvest took a heavy toll, and the fishery started to decline. Logging led to the destruction of spawning areas. Large commercial mining operations started, bringing more people and habitat loss. The situation was mirrored on the U.S. side of the lake. Lake Superior’s famous brook trout were in big trouble.

The mining and paper industries required electric power, so a series of four hydroelectric dams were built on the river between 1920 and 1950. This isolated the Lake Nipigon brook trout from the river and from Lake Superior. The trout trapped between the dams could still spawn, but seasonal water drawdowns dewatered the spawning areas, killing both eggs and fry. Fewer and fewer fish were being caught, and most that were caught were harvested.

Gary Lange is a Nipigon native and owner of Bowman Island Lodge on Lake Superior, outside Nipigon Bay. He has fished the area for more than 60 years and talks of spending several days on the water in the late 1990s catching just a couple of small brook trout. Various stocking attempts by Ontario and the U.S. were failures. In the year 2000, the fishery was near total collapse.

Brook Trout Recovery

In 2005, a series of special regulations were put in place on the Ontario waters of Lake Superior and all tributaries extending all the way to Lake Nipigon. Much of this was the vision of fisheries biologist Ron Swainson of the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources. A much-reduced open season with restrictive size and keep limits has been in place for about four brook trout generations (five years per generation).

Presently, the open season for brook trout in the Ontario waters of Lake Superior and tributaries to the first boundary and the Nipigon River runs from the last Saturday in April until Labor Day. In Lake Nipigon the season lasts until September 15. You can keep only one brook trout, and it must be over 22 inches, so it’s essentially a catch-and-release fishery. Lake Nipigon is also restricted to single, barbless hooks.

There was plenty of resistance to these changes at first, but after seeing the positive results—more fish, of a bigger average size—most anglers embraced the new rules. Today, very few brook trout are killed, even if they’re legal size.

The positive results have been noticeable, both anecdotally and backed by research. Guide Gord Ellis has worked the Nipigon Corridor for over 30 years and has witnessed the full cycle of the Nipigon coaster fishery.

“My main concern now is new people who come into the fishery may not appreciate what a comeback story it is, and will begin to harvest the large fish,” Ellis said. “I always take time to explain the history of the coaster brook trout and the Nipigon River to people I guide, so they know how precious these fish are. There are very few places in the world that have trophy brook trout you can drive to. It is a true success story for coldwater fisheries management.”

Lake Nipigon

Today, you can catch coasters consistently from Isle Royale in Michigan and along Lake Superior’s shoreline and islands from Thunder Bay, Ontario, north to Nipigon, and east nearly to Sault Ste. Marie. However, it is the Nipigon Corridor where these fish have the strongest foothold.

Lake Nipigon could be called the sixth Great Lake. Despite its size, as mentioned earlier, its depths are virtually uncharted, and it is surrounded by protected land. There are only four access points on the entire lake, and fishing pressure is extremely light. Most anglers access the lake from the South Bay boat ramp, and it is rare to see more than another boat or two during a day’s fishing.

Brook trout fishing is consistent from ice-out in mid-May through the season closure in mid-September. The lake contains hundreds of islands with rocky points, rocky reefs and shoals, and drop-offs—all of which attract brook trout. The most popular and effective fly-fishing method in these prime locations is stripping baitfish streamers on sinking lines. Use size 2 to size 4 streamers to imitate smelt, sticklebacks, and sculpins, plus attractor patterns. I prefer rabbit strip or craft fur patterns in all white, barred white, olive, pink, and orange. I tie them on tubes to set the hook farther back, since coasters love to nip the tail of the fly. Circus Peanuts in white/pearl and olive, Muddler Minnows, and Magog Smelts are also good patterns.

In midsummer, mayfly hatches get the trout looking up, and large dry flies can produce fish. Guides Neil LeDuc and Ayden Ricker Held have spent a lot of time on Lake Nipigon, much of it unraveling the dry-fly mystery for coasters.

The dry-fly fishing is somewhat akin to gulper fishing, as surface-feeding coasters are cruising the surface looking for bugs, and rarely hold in a single location. The water is crystal clear, and often letting a fly hit the surface hard enough to make noise will attract a fish to find your fly.

The hits can be vicious, or just gentle sips. When a big coaster hits, hang on. Unlike most people’s perception of brook trout, these are powerful fish, making surprisingly fast runs and even jumping at times. A 7-weight outfit with 12-pound tippet is not overkill. Lake Nipigon coasters are usually in the 18- to 20-inch class, with larger fish possible on any cast. Lake whitefish can also show up, and will eat both drys and streamers.

Water temperature is the determining factor for what depths coasters will inhabit. This is true on both Lake Nipigon and Lake Superior. When the ice first clears, the fish can be extremely shallow, often in just a couple feet of water. They prefer warming water next to boulders, along rocky drop-offs, and near fallen logs, where they can wait to ambush prey. They are rarely on a hard, smooth bottom. Think of smallmouth fishing in a lake.

As the water warms through the 40s and 50s F., coasters move along shallow areas with access to deeper water, always in search of food. They will concentrate in specific areas at times if the bait is there. As temperature reaches 60 F, they make short forays up shallow to feed, and then drop back to cooler water. When the shallows reach 65 degrees F., the brook trout move deep and stay there.

There are also lake trout in big numbers in Lake Nipigon, and fish up to 20 pounds are quite common. You can also catch them at ice-out with big baitfish patterns and fast-sinking lines along deep reef edges, but most of the fly-fishing effort goes toward coasters. A 9-weight outfit is the best match for the lakers.

When you hook them, they make long, strong runs toward deep water. Once water temperatures reach the upper 50s, lakers move deep and become difficult to reach with a fly.

Lake Nipigon also has a big population of northern pike. A 50-inch or better fish is possible any day, and fish over 40 inches are fairly common. The key to catching pike is finding the isolated weed beds that hold them. Use a 10-weight outfit to throw oversized 10- to 12-inch flashy patterns. Few anglers target Lake Nipigon pike, focusing on the trout instead.

Nipigon River

Three dams still control flows on the Nipigon River. Working downstream, the first is Pine Portage Dam, built in 1950, which forms Lake Forgan. Fed by Lake Nipigon, it is rightly a part of the river—there is continuous current with an assortment of channels, shoals, and islands. This section of the river does have some wadable areas, but they can only be reached by boat from the launch above the dam.

Brook trout are the primary focus here, and some of the most historic spots on the river were in this stretch. Rabbit Rapids, where Cook’s record fish was caught, is now beneath the waters of Forgan Lake.  

Below Pine Portage Dam is a stretch of river that goes into a canyon with high cliffs on each side, and finally into a wide area known as Lake Jesse, ending at the Cameron Falls Dam.

Pine Portage is a bottom-release dam, so this helps keep this stretch of the river cold, with water temperatures rarely exceeding 55 F. This is where much of the fly-fishing focus takes place, especially if Lake Nipigon warms up too much.

Early May is when this area is ready for fishing. Enough snow has melted to be able to launch boats at Lake Jesse and make the run upstream to the dam. Lake Jesse has an assortment of shoreline points, shoals, and islands—all worth probing with streamers on a sinking line. Streamers produce all the way up until the season end on Labor Day.

Insect activity starts around mid-June and can last until the end of the season. Here you can see an assortment of stoneflies, mayflies, and caddis. Though unpredictable, there are some hatches of big mayflies that trigger big fish to feed actively on top. Brown Drakes and Hexagenia mayflies can both show up, and they seem to trigger the best surface action.

In the canyon stretch above Lake Jesse, it’s also possible to swing flies on a 7-weight or 8-weight switch rod from a boat. You don’t need heavy sink tips, because the fish will move a long way to take a fly. With two anglers in the boat, it pays to fish to this combination. It’s not unusual for a good fish to follow an attractor, but then take the more natural variation.

Right below Pine Portage Dam, the flows vary depending on electricity generation, and water levels can change quickly. Maneuvering a boat here definitely requires prior experience on moving water. Often an increase in flow triggers brook trout feeding as the water rises. A variety of techniques can produce here, but stripping or swinging streamers is the most popular. Backdropping streamers from a slow-moving boat also works well. Dead-drifting techniques and Euro nymphing can be productive, but most successful fly anglers focus on streamers.

The section below Alexander Dam offers full access to the various migratory species moving in from Lake Superior. Rainbows and/or steelhead are the primary draw in the spring, along with some holdover coaster brook trout and lake trout. In the fall, various Pacific salmon species, including Chinook, coho, and pink salmon, enter the river and move up toward the dam. The brook trout in this stretch are true Lake Superior coasters with free movement to and from the lake.

Below the dam, the river runs for several miles before entering Lake Helen. The shoals in Lake Helen produce both coasters and lake trout if water temperatures are suitable. The weedy areas along the edges hold pike. Fish from Lake Superior begin entering Lake Helen in July, and they stage there prior to making the run up to the dam.

Gord Ellis fishes this river section regularly, since there’s often less fishing pressure than on the upper river. He says there are always brook trout in this part of the river. They may not be in the same density as upriver, but some really large fish have come out of this stretch in recent years. A big Hexagenia hatch in mid- to late July can bring good fish to the surface.

Lake Superior

The waters of Lake Superior outside of the Nipigon Straits offer an experience like no other in the Great Lakes. And with the Lake Superior Marine Conservation Area in place, it will stay a nearly pristine wilderness. Access is by boat from the towns of Nipigon or Red Rock, but that’s unpredictable because of the fickle nature of Lake Superior. When weather permits, Neil LeDuc and Ayden Ricker Held do day trips out to this area. They often run two boats together in case of any mechanical issues on the big water. You are basically on your own out here.

On the south side of St. Ignace Island, Lake Superior is a maze of shoals, reefs, rocky points, and channels. The water is crystal clear, with visibility reaching 30 feet. There are ample places to duck out of the wind once you are out there, and even spots where you can fish from shore. I’ve explored this area for nearly 15 years, and I don’t think we have ever lost a full day of fishing due to weather.

Staying out for a period of days is a possibility, but overnight accommodations are very limited. Gary Lange operated Bowman Island Lodge for nearly 20 years. Lange transported guests from Nipigon to the lodge with his 40-foot trawler, and offered lodging, meals, and boats for DIY fishing. At this writing however, Lange may be winding down this operation, as he is now pushing 80 years old.

North Superior Outfitters (northsuperioroutfitters.com) operates out of Red Rock and transports guests to their two cabins on Moss Island at the west end of the Nipigon Strait. This is on the edge of main Lake Superior, but well sheltered from wind. It’s a housekeeping situation, where guests supply their own meals and the outfitter provides boats and motors for DIY fishing. Guided fishing is also available, but I am not sure about the fly-fishing experience of the guides.

Fly-fishing adventurer Jeff Currier has fished the area with me several times, and favors a clear intermediate line for coasters in the clear water. He feels that, in calm conditions, a visible fly line bothers the fish. Currier fishes jig-style streamers, and can easily adjust for depth with the weight of the fly. The clear line is now in my arsenal of gear when I’m targeting coasters.

While coasters are usually caught in 4- to 10-foot depths, lake trout are more likely in the 10- to 20-foot range and even deeper. Here, a fast-sinking line is best, on a 9-weight or even a 10-weight. Currier also helped to increase our success on lakers by suggesting we lengthen our leaders to 10 to 12 feet with a jig-style pattern. The longer leader keeps the fly from the dark-colored sinking line, and also lets a fast-sinking jig pattern drop below the fly line.

Almost any small trickle of water coming into the lake is worth a cast or two, since the usually warmer water attracts bait and various predators. Several larger creeks with sustained flows attract fish consistently. On any given day, they can be coasters, rainbows and steelhead, lake trout, or salmon. The salmon are normally immature Chinooks or cohos.

 As the water warms up, these creeks will lose productivity as water temperatures become too high. However, in late summer when cool nights drop temperatures again, they begin to attract fish once more. Both coasters and mature salmon move to these areas as spawning time gets closer.

With the ongoing recovery of the Nipigon Corridor fishery, these waters are slowly being rediscovered. They offer an appealing combination of fish species for fly anglers, with big coaster brook trout being the ultimate targets. If there is a downside to this fishery, it might be the scarcity of guides. With one of the lodges on Lake Superior likely no longer available, this will become more difficult.  

Even on the mainland there are few experienced fly-fishing guides available, and most guides are booked out well in advance. The same holds for lodging, too. You can find plenty of general material about the area, but detailed information—when, where, and how—is limited.

On the positive side, the brook trout continue to respond well to the established regulations. Their numbers are increasing, and their range is expanding in the Ontario waters of Lake Superior. While Dr. Cook’s record from 1915 may never be eclipsed, the Nipigon area once again offers anglers the chance to catch brook trout of sizes available in very few other places.

Guides, Lodging, and Food

The town of Nipigon sits on Highway 17, the TransCanada Highway. Through Michigan, take I-75 north and cross the border at Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan. Pick up Highway 17 in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, heading west. From Duluth, Minnesota, follow Rt. 61 north, crossing the border into Ontario at Grand Portage. In Thunder Bay, Ontario, pick up Highway 17 and head east to Nipigon.

You can also fly into Thunder Bay, Ontario, via several airlines. From there, you rent a car and it is about an hour drive to Nipigon. Your guide can also help arrange a pickup.

There are a number of motels in the Nipigon area, but due to ongoing road construction, they are often booked to house highway workers. If you plan to fish, be sure to book your lodging ahead of time. Affinity Angling and Hot Take Angling use the Beaver Motel in Nipigon. There are several restaurants in the area, but be aware that their open hours may not agree with fishing times.

Guide Gord Ellis is based out of The Lodge at Red Rock (discoverthelodge.ca). Lodging and all meals are included in guiding packages. The other guides listed rely on clients to make their own lodging and meal arrangements.

Tyler Dunn is based in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, but guides the Nipigon Corridor during peak times for brook trout.

North Superior Charters/Moss Island Lodge (superiorcountry.ca/partner/north-superior-charters) has cabins on Lake Superior, as well as a cabin on Lake Nipigon. This is housekeeping only, and guests prepare all their meals. Boats and motors are included.

Contacts

• Affinity Angling, Neil LeDuc (affinityangling.com), 519-503-2278.
• Hot Take Angling, Ayden Ricker-Held (hottakeangling.ca), 905-650-0716.
• Beaver Motel, (beavermotel.ca), 807-887-3132.
• Tyler Dunn (tylerdunnguiding.ca), 705-296-0984.
• Gord Ellis Outdoors (gordellis.com).
• North Superior Charters (northsuperiorcharters.ca), 807-629-0053.
• The Lodge at Red Rock (discoverthelodge.ca), 807-621-6342.

The website brooktroutheaven.com is dedicated to preserving the history of the Nipigon region and providing information on the brook trout fishery as it exists today. The site provides detailed information on all aspects of Nipigon brook trout.

The Nipigon Historical Museum has an excellent display about the fishing history of the area and is well worth a visit.

The Lake Superior Marine Conservation area maintains an office right in Nipigon.

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Jerry Darkes (jerrydarkes.com) has more than five decades of fly-fishing experience in fresh and salt water. He was one of the first fly-fishing guides on Lake Erie. Darkes has been a fly-fishing instructor for more than 30 years, and has published four books on fly fishing, including Favorite Flies for the Upper Midwest: 50 Essential Patterns from Local Experts (Stackpole Books, 2024) and Fly Fishing the Inland Oceans: An Angler’s Guide to Finding and Catching Fish in the Great Lakes (Headwater Books, 2013).

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